Pro Stock Hockey grip tape https://www.prostockhockey.com/howies-kiosk/howies-1-5-black-cloth-hockey-tape-12pk/ https://www.prostockhockey.com/howies-kiosk/howies-black-1-2-knob-tape-12pk/
Tools
- Measuring tape -
- Sharpie -
- Utility Knife: A retractable blade, found at any hardware store. Keep replacement blades handy and replace them very often. They dull quickly when cutting foam and can tear the foam if they are dull.
- Hot Wire Foam Cutter: Very, very good for making weapons assembly-line style. It can be adjusted to make a consistent cut for repetitive work. I own the model from Woodland Scenics at https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/HOTWRFMCUTR, but I am considering buying the Pro Set from Hot Wire Foam Factory http://hotwirefoamfactory.com.
- Straight-Edge Ruler: Any ruler with a hard edge that you can run the utility knife along without damage. Many people use a steel T-square.
- A gridded plexiglass quilter’s ruler is also a good choice.
- Electric Knife: Traditionally used for carving hams or turkeys. It’s a knife with a reciprocating edge. It can cut through foam like butter. Buy one from Goodwill.
- Big Flat-Headed Screwdriver: You might not think you need one until you need to open a can of DAP or change a utility knife blade.
- Hand Drill: Used when working with wood to affix bolts to shields.
- Crescent Wrench: Used for tightening the bolts.
- Hacksaw: Used for sawing through pipes, fiberglass rods and arrows, and graphite golf club shafts. You can buy a tiny hacksaw blade frame that gives you more control over the cutting for about $5 at Home Depot. I have had a lot of luck using a razor saw for these tasks, but I have not been thrilled with the longevity of the blades.
- Heat Gun: This is good for making duct tape stickier and for heating up butyl tape so that it’s easier to work with. It’s cheap at Harbor Freight. You don’t need any better than that.
- PVC Cutter: If you make many PVC weapons, this is definitely worth getting. This cutter has ratcheting jaws and cuts the pipe straight and clean. About $10 at Home Depot.
Weapon Foam
Story time… When NERO started, it was not supposed to be as big as it is now. It expanded to the south, where the foam diameter is often thinner because the pipes do not need to be as well insulated. Often in Pittsburgh you will see foam that is only 3/8" thick, and that is too thin for LARP use. The minimum that you should think of using is 5/8" wall thickness.
The foam is often sold with an option for an adhesive coating along the slit. I generally get adhesive-backed foam for anchor points and non-adhesive foam for my blades. The adhesive makes the foam a bit more expensive, but it’s worth it for some applications. Right now there are two big options for foam: 3/4-inch wall foam from McMaster-Carr or 5/8-inch wall foam from a hardware store. The McMaster-Carr foam is really good in that it fits correctly on Kitespar, and it is thicker, so it lasts longer. It’s not quite as good for CPVC weapons, though, because the thicker wall size will make the weapon thicker.
Bad
- Pool Noodles - These break down very, very fast. They are lighter than other foams because of the huge bubbles in the foam.
Good
- Unifoam - McMaster-Carr 85735K66: “POLYURETHANE FOAM SHEET, 2” THICK, 24" X 48", CHARCOAL"
Tubular Pipe Insulation
- 5/8" wall thickness foam - used for CPVC boffers
- 3/4" wall thickness foam - This is available from McMaster-Carr and is what I use for my ultralight swords.
Order foam from www.mcmaster.com; it ships fast, in 3–5 days.
This is a thicker 3/4-inch foam that is commonly available now. The specification for NERO weapons requires 5/8-inch foam, which is being phased out by hardware companies due to changing laws. Part # 4530K161 for .414 and .505 UL cores (1-handed weapons). Part # 4530K162 for .610 UL cores (2-handed weapons), which has an inner diameter of 1/2". This will be snug on a .505 and a tad loose for anything smaller. Part # 4530K163 has an inner diameter of 5/8", which is going to be a bit too large for .505 Kitespar or smaller.
Some traditional hardware stores stock the 5/8-inch foam, but because it’s a specialty product, you are probably going to need to order a case of it for around $100. Individual packs of four. http://www.bicsuperstore.com/ITP-Limited-PR58058TA-Pipe-Insulation-Tundra/M/B000DZHD0M.htm http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZHD0M/ Black Foam http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BVS1E0/ EVA Lite Foam - Heavier than camp foam, but far more durable. McMaster-Carr Part # 86095K24 for 1/2"
Foam Butt Caps “Tapered EVA Butt Caps”
http://www.mudhole.com/s.nl?sc=2&category=12&it=A&id=6012&fromsla=T&whence Order Part EB-1 Length 2 1/2 1/2 1 3/4
Foam Sheeting
* Blue Camping Foam (Walmart Ozark Trail brand) - Available at Walmart. The majority of Dagorhir weapons are made from this foam. Believed to be a form of non-cross-linked polyethylene foam. Density is about 2.4 lb/ft3. - $5.86 a roll. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trial-Camping-Pad-Blue/16783660
http://www.foamforyou.com/minicell_foam.htm http://www.foambymail.com/ http://www.foambyconbuilt.com
Thrusting Tips
When making boffers for NERO, you will often want to use open-cell foam that is commonly sold in sheets at Jo-Ann’s. https://www.joann.com/airtex-2-high-density-foam-by-the-yard/2180289.html#start=1 You can also buy it through McMaster-Carr because of course you can. McMaster-Carr Part # 85735K66
Weapon Cores
Don’t try to get too creative with your core designs. Most of the issues that I have seen with new players making their first props come from wanting to innovate by using something different from what is currently used. While this is a noble goal, most alternate materials are not particularly good for one reason or another.
As was mentioned earlier, keep in mind that PVC is usually measured by its inside diameter, whereas regular fiberglass rods are measured by their outside diameter. So 1/2" PVC will easily slide over 1/2" fiberglass.
Bad Weapon Cores
- Bamboo: Heavier than PVC and not particularly suited for touch fighting. It is good for other LARPs where the style of combat is different.
- Aluminum pipe: Waaaay too heavy for a NERO sword.
- Graphite: Very light but is said to shatter easily. Available at: http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_TT202203 – GRAFALLOY PROLAUNCH BLUE™ 45 GRAPHITE WOOD SHAFTS https://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW0048 – GRAFTECH GT 65 GRAPHITE WOOD SHAFTS
- Wood poles
Good Weapon Cores
PVC Pipe
There are MANY kinds of PVC pipe, and, without being a plumber, the numbers on the pipe can be confusing. PVC is usually measured by its inside diameter. The big numbers indicate whether the pipe is standard PVC or cold-water PVC, also known as CPVC. Both pipe types will also have a PSI rating. The higher that rating, the heavier the core, so generally you will want a lower rating in the 200–300 range. When cutting PVC pipe, there is a tool that you can purchase that is made for cutting pipe and spins around the pipe. This tool will make very, very good cuts for PVC but will shatter Kitespar.
Kitespar
Originally used for kite-making, these tubes are very light and strong. They can snap if enough force is put on them, but for any LARP fighting, they will hold up just fine. Really, “kite spar” is a fancy way of saying pultruded fiberglass tubing. Glasforms makes the industry-standard product and uses a common part number for its parts, which are priced radically differently by different vendors. Most vendors are not good sources for ordering one or two spars at a time, so it’s generally best to order a large batch at once.
- FL-414 - Best for one-handed swords; use with McMaster-Carr foam. NOT for two-handed weapons (it will snap).
- FL-505 - Best for heavier one-handed swords or one-handed shortswords. NOT for two-handed weapons (it will snap).
- FL-602 - Use this for two-handed swords. It is not good for one-handed swords. It doesn’t have enough flex at that length, and although it’s light for a two-handed sword, it’s of comparable weight to a PVC longsword.
http://www.funwithwind.com http://www.funwithwind.com/store/ListCategoriesAndProducts2.asp?idCategory=177&idparent=168 FL505 $9.59 FL602 $11.44
http://www.goodwinds.com/ FL414 $8.29 Product ID 007017 .414 Kitespar for one-handed swords FL-602-60 $14.99 Product ID 007037 .602 Kitespar for two-handed swords
Shipping is about 10 bucks for 3 cores.
Tape
Bad
Gorilla Tape - Heavier and more expensive than normal 3M or Duck brand duct tape. Better for holding things together, but I would not recommend it for weapons. Buy it at Home Depot.
Gaffer Tape - Available in lighting supply stores, similar to duct tape but does not leave as much residue when removed. Recommended for holding covers onto weapons. Very susceptible to cold. It will freeze and fall off. http://www.tapemonster.com/
Good
Dacron Kite Tape - Cloth-style tape that, while much more expensive than duct tape, has a very good feel to it and still gives you some of the weight benefits of the more advanced tapes. Nylon Kite Tape - The lighter of the two kinds of kite tape. Tends to wrinkle if left in the sun and decreases weapon durability. http://www.kitebuilder.com Nylon Ripstop with Adhesive: $7.50 for a 25-foot roll. http://www.paragear.com/templates/parachutes.asp?group=251&level=2&parent=193 Item: W903 :: Nylon Ripstop tape 25 foot roll Price: 1 to 5, $9.00; 6 to 19, $7.65; 20 or more, $6.75.
Size 1–3 microfiber tights with a toe - Walmart is the best cost/durability. Three-packs are cheapest, but you usually have to get three different colors for that. Remember not to get ones without toes or with multiple toes.
Misc Applications
Strapping tape - A cellophane tape with string running along it. Sometimes used as an alternative to athletic/hockey tape. Very good for adhering crossguards and reinforcing foam to anchor points. Hockey tape - Good for having adhesives stick to it. It’s also good for grips on swords. Electrical tape - Very cheap and good for grips when money is an issue.
Grips
Any Kitespar weapon will need to have the grip of the weapon built up. It’s not required by the rules, but if you actually plan on swinging the thing, it is essential. I like to wrap the grip area in rope, put some butyl tape on it, and slide a PVC pipe over it. Electrical tape Sharpie
Anchor Points
The foam needs to somehow be adhered to the core that you are using for the boffer.
Bad
Wood Glue - Turns hard and crunchy and is not particularly good at holding foam to the pipe. Elmer’s Glue - Same as wood glue.
OK
Double-sided duct tape - You often end up with the joint failing if you put any real force on it, but it will hold up to normal use. Carpet tape, Fiberglass Indoor/Outdoor - Slightly better than double-sided duct tape. Butyl Tape - I ended up with a stockpile of this stuff and have found that it’s really good for anchoring foam to Kitespar or PVC. It’s a black, tar-like substance. It adds a good deal of weight and makes a bit of a mess. I wouldn’t recommend it if you need to search it out, but it’s fine if you’ve got it anyway.
Good
Weldwood DAP Contact Cement in a Red Can - Cons: Requires 10 minutes or more to be ready. Has a very strong odor and must be used outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area far from an open flame. Try to make it so that you are doing a couple of weapons if you end up using this because the fumes are so bad. Does not bind to duct tape very well. To use this, apply it to both materials that you are sticking together and wait 15–30 minutes before sticking them together. Apply one coat, wait 10 minutes, then apply a second coat.
If you’re in a hurry, you can also use Super 74 Spray Adhesive from 3M. Use turpentine to clean.
When attaching foam to foam, use spray glue. When attaching foam to pipe, use DAP contact cement.
Size 1–3 microfiber tights with a toe - Walmart is the best cost/durability. Three-packs are cheapest, but you usually have to get three different colors for that. Remember not to get ones without toes or with multiple toes.
Clear latex wears out and needs to be reapplied.
Longsword Pricing for Resale
Generally, ultralight longswords go for $35; this breaks down to: $8.29 + shipping for ultralight core $5 for kite tape ($1 a yard) $5 + shipping and handling for foam $1.00 for open-cell foam from either Jo Ann Fabrics or an Army Surplus store $2.00 in duct tape for anchor points and waylay bits $5.00 for a tennis grip (optional) About 1.5 hours of labor. Total materials are approximately $20, with about an hour and a half of labor. If you make 2 swords, the time and cost per sword go down.
Making Shields for NERO
Most people make shields out of either 1/4-inch plywood or corrugated plastic. Plywood and corrugated plastic come in 4-by-8-foot sheets, and you should be able to get 6 shields from a sheet. To do this, you will generally need to have a cutout of the pattern that you will be using and trace it onto the material that you are cutting out. Also, if you are painting your shields (which I recommend), you want to do a base coat before you cut them out. I like to apply paint to plywood with a roller; I usually do 2 coats on each side, waiting a half hour in between coats for it to dry. For corrugated plastic, I think you can get it in different colors; I haven’t found it myself. When I need to paint it, I use Krylon Fusion Spray Paint, which is pricey but worth it because it bonds directly to the plastic. After the shields are cut out, I make sure that the corners are rounded off and padded out with closed-cell foam. I then attach the handle and strap for holding the shield. I try to angle it so that the wielder doesn’t need to move their arm as much to block, but that’s a matter of preference. Remember that left-handed fighters need to have the grips reversed. I use garage door handles for my shields, but I have seen people use other handles as well.
Max Area = 351 square inches Longest Dimension = 36 inches Maximum Perimeter = 92 inches
Cut plywood with a jigsaw or circular saw, then sand the edges smooth. Most NERO shields have a handle and are then strapped to the wielder’s arm. Use garage door handles for the handle and bolt them to the plywood. I also use bolts for the belt or piece of fabric that I use for the strap.
Cut corrugated plastic with either a jigsaw or a pair of heavy-duty scissors or snips.
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/ Krylon Fusion - If you are spray painting plastic, this is the best way to make sure the paint stays on. It’s expensive, about $10 a can, but it actually fuses to the plastic and will last for a long time.
Woodland Scenics hot wire foam cutter
I have also seen people use pink foam for their shields, but I feel that this is a really bad choice.
Filament Wound Epoxy Tube fwet
https://www.reddit.com/r/LARP/comments/82gyhf/where_to_buy_cores_online_the_semicomprehensive/